Beat up

Havent gotten beat up like that in a while. Sand up the nose, ears, eyes, the wazoo. Not much picture taking, waves were too crazy. Gona try another spot manana.

Acclimation

Finally grew some balls and paddled out today. Man this cold winter water is no joke! Feet hurt, hands hurt. Definitely nothing to brag about. Tiny, closed out shore pounds.

Hiatus

Sorry for the long hiatus, Ive been away in Indonesia (not a surf trip unfortunately). I did manage to squeeze in a few days of surf in Bali while down there. It was rainy season, so the waves werent the best quality, but still hella fun though. Not to mention the warm water, cant complain about that! Enjoy the pics.

While Im glad to be back home, its gona take me alittle while to acclimate to all this cold weather. Ill be back out in the local break soon though, gotta be ready for winter surf!

Walled up fun

Its good to be back in the local spot with some surf buddies. I was hoping the waves would be better, but what are you gona do. Chest high walls pretty much all morning. A few had some short lived shoulders, but almost all of them just wall up and close out. Still had fun tucking into those walls and getting thrown around a bit, feels like home...

Stingrays

Stepped on 3 of them today. They just slithered slithered away instead of harpooning me though, thank goodness. Hung out in the OC today, promised some friends Id be their surf teacher (unqualified as I am). Some small mushy stuff here, nothing spectacular. The water is peculiarly warm though.....
Cant wait to get back to the local breaks tomorrow!

BALLS...

... I need to grow me a pair. Went a bit further south to avoid the crowds and ended up finding some waves at a spot that was breaking pretty gnarly. They were ranging from alittle overhead, to alot overhead. I was pretty scared out there everytime the sets would roll from all the way outside. I think my heart wanted to pop right out of my chest, it was pounding so hard. The shapes were really nice though, the faces would hold and hold for a long time. Managed to catch 3 of them and they were super fun, but the paddle back out was a bitch to say the least. I suppose between the fear & anxiety I had alittle bit of fun out there. Most of the pics were taken from shore cus I didnt have the nerves to get pounded by these suckers. Sorry for the bad quality pics, some of them are zoomed in & cropped.

Layover

Holy geebus I love this place! Stopped by SD north county on the drive down to mom's house. This is by far my fave spot down here, and today's sesh just reinforced that. Clean ass waves, waist high and bigger, getting to head high at times. Sun was out, water was warm(ish), waves were awesome. Had a fun 2 hour sesh. Too many people know about this place though, it was really crowded. Maybe tomorrow Ill hit a different spot that is less crowded.