Sunday, October 3, 2010
Walled up fun
Its good to be back in the local spot with some surf buddies. I was hoping the waves would be better, but what are you gona do. Chest high walls pretty much all morning. A few had some short lived shoulders, but almost all of them just wall up and close out. Still had fun tucking into those walls and getting thrown around a bit, feels like home...
Saturday, October 2, 2010
Stingrays
Stepped on 3 of them today. They just slithered slithered away instead of harpooning me though, thank goodness. Hung out in the OC today, promised some friends Id be their surf teacher (unqualified as I am). Some small mushy stuff here, nothing spectacular. The water is peculiarly warm though.....
Cant wait to get back to the local breaks tomorrow!
Cant wait to get back to the local breaks tomorrow!
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