HB

Drove down to the OC today with a buddy to tr to catch some SW swell. It was so damn crowded, it was ridiculous. Of course that was because we were right by the pier, where the hot spots were. Thats because it was sucky everywhere else. Believe me, we tried it. Anyway there were some super nice waves rolling through but we couldnt get our hands on those cus the local pros were just tearing it up. On any given wave there were at least 3 heads going for it. We caught some insides ones a bit further from the main attraction. Kinda mushy and inconsistent but fun. Still too crowded though!

Expectations not met

Dang, I was expecting better waves today! There were definitely more waves and size overall, but almost no shape whatsover. Went over so man falls today. Not to mention it was mad shallow where it was breaking. On the other hand started getting used to opening my eyes on duck dives. Its a pretty cool sight.
Heres Julie on a take off. She caught one pretty good left today.

Down with OGs

Sunny, no wind, nice water... too bad the waves were kinda weak. There were actually bigger sets up to chest high, but mostly closing out. Although, I was hanging out with the OGs and some spongers and they seemed to be catching some good stuff. All i caught were a bunch of good wipeouts. Sand in the eyes no bueno. Tomorrow should be better!
Heres OG Chris vs OG Bob. Bob ended up grabbing that left and Chris pulled off. These guys are serious!

Bleh

I dont know if its even surfable. Onshore blowing early. Hmmm....no thanks.

Got Wet

I did it, I got wet today (woohoo). The waves were not exactly the shapeliest Ive seen, it was mostly waist high, walled up except for some really nice looking lefts by the pier. All the OGs got dibs on those already. Caught only a few ok ones myself. It was overcast and light onshore winds, but the water was warm!Heres Bob on a little left.

Ummmmm...

If it wasnt for more back spasming the past few days I wouldve gone and gotten wet. Anyway, today I went to take a look at the surf but it looked kind of lousy... so I stayed high and dry again. Damn, I really need to get wet soon! A bunch of my friends were out in the water though. Weekend surfers gotta get their surf on.
I gotta try to get wet tomorrow.

Heavy Stuff

Just expected, todays waves were as gnarly as yesterday. Haha, I watched and took pictures from the beach... Enjoy these pics, and I even made a video this time. Maybe Ill paddle out tomorrow?

Heres the video I put together. Sorry, no sound, it was kind of a rush job.

Hope your lunch was as good as mine!!! cooked it myself.

Pure Spectator

OK. So today I took pictures of the big waves. Alot of them looked fun, some of them looked pretty walled up. Consistent chest to head high, with overhead sets, and pretty much all left handers. Tomorrow is probably more of the same...

Winter in July

Well, back in town and couldnt wait to go back to my spot. The sesh started out on the slow side, small and weak little closeouts, no shape whatsoever, not to mention it was overcast and the water was cold! Someone tell the ocean that its supposed to be July! A pod of dolphins hung out really close around me. Then all of a sudden these sets rolled in that had some decent size. I think the south swell is starting to come through... So yeah, the rest of the sesh had decent size, although the shape wasnt quite holding up, it was a bit wally. Cant say I got too many good waves, but it was fun regardless.
Tomorrow I have a feeling it will be large walls up and down the beach... I might stay dry and just snap pics of the brave souls out in the water. Yeah, Im a kook like that.

No sun today, but...

... man, it was so clean when we first got there, the waves looked so pretty. It was consistent waist to chest stuff, really fun. There were long lulls in between though. About 30mins in it got pretty crowded and kinda took away some of the fun, and then the winds started texturing the surface. Still there were a few fun ones to snag here and there. Dolphins & seals were out playing with us out in the lineup.

Grand part 2

Went back to the same spot today, more of the same stuff, but about triple the amount of heads in the water! Waves were about waist high, lacking in power, but super clean. We made the best of it! And my fellow kook was excited about some progress in her surfing today. Tomorrow is probably gona be my last sesh at that spot before I go back up to LA.

Life is Grand

Another morning sesh at a different spot in north county today. Still small, but definitely better than yesterday. About waist high and super clean, very fun. Some long lulls, but its all good. Probably surf the same spot tomorrow, cant wait!

SD North County

Drove to San Diego last night, and had a morning sesh with a buddy in north county SD. Its so consistent here, I love it. However the waves today were not the best. All clean, knee high, sets were maybe up to waist high, but lacks power overall. Kind of rolly most of the time, tough even for my 6'0 Rocketfish. Regardless, we made the best of it and had fun. Hopefully tomorrow morning has a bit more size. Heres a shitty pic of what the waves looked like. Sorry i couldnt take a better one cus... i dont know, cus i suck.
Ill try to take better pics tomorrow!!

Im in San Diego to visit my mom. She made some delish Indonesian dessert that Im just scarfing down. Noone makes them like mom!

At least it was sunny

Finally did dawn patrol this morning. Happenned to be negative low tide, so it was small and messy, and there wasnt much to work with. However my buddy caught alot and showed me just what a kook I am. Heres a snap of what its like out there.
You can see my buddy there in the pic, and the relative size of the wave... yuck.

Now off to work on the house!

Holy back spasms Batman!

Damn my back hurts like a mofo today. I was up on the roof yesterday doing some hard labor, and I guess all the stooping down and lifting heavy stuff took a toll on my bad disc. I woke up this morning to a very immobile back. Degenerative discs suck, I mean the pain can be so debilitating that it makes you stay in bed all day. Luckily, surf continues to be dismal which means Im not missing much. Couldnt get very much done today due to the pain.

Bruschetta

Today is the first yield of my home grown tomatoes! Given there were only 3 red pickable ones, but that was enough for my girlfriend to make like 8 yummy bruschettas. Oh, and we also used fresh picked basil in the mix. Damn these things tasted good. Check it, check it- sshhyeah...

On the not so high note, surf has been sucking. There is a major south swell which is dying down right now, but my local break is west facing. My friend gave me a wake up call for dawn patrol this morning only to follow with a surf report of "its flat." Ive been dry for too long, and looking at the forecast, Im afraid it will stay that way through the weekend. Wetsand says the swell will just keeps dying down...

Independence Day

Im a total kook, and Im not ashamed of it. I think surfing is all about the pure enjoyment of it, and its ok to screw up a wave once in a while. I mean, practice makes perfect right? And if youre having fun out there, who cares?

Today is independence day. Check out how many people are out at my local break!! Insanity. I chose to stay dry.