Da shivers

Man it was cold this morning!! But, the waves were frikkin awesommmmeeee.... I surfed a 3 hour session today. Wouldve done longer but the cold was getting to me. My body was getting the shivers and my teeth were chattering. It was just super clean, waist to chest high consistent stuff. The peaks were quite a sight to behold, so beautiful. Got alittle too crowded towards the end of the session though. Drove back home today, so back to the home break tomorrow.