Wipeout central

Had so many wipeouts today in the shorepounds of the local break. What happened to the NW & SW mixer that was supposed to show? I can safely say I wont be pursuing a career in surf forecasting anytime soon. Waist to chest mostly walls, onshore picked up pretty early, making even more of a mess of things out there. It was fun overall, but I gotta say I was a bit disappointed. Ill be staying dry until next weekend cus Im doing a trip to Arizona. Til the next episode....

Gloom

Wow it was so gloomy when i woke up this morning. What happened to summer this year!!? NW swell hadnt filled in yet this morning, so it was still on the dumpy side. Clean, but dumpy. The waves started getting less pitchy throughout the sesh but it got messy & crumbly. Got a few good rides though. Waves were waist to chest, some shoulder high sets rolling in. I know I said this yesterday too, but tomorrow will be better!

Closeout party

First surf sesh back in south bay... I miss SD surf. Waves were inconsistent waist to chest, walled up and pitchy. I might have had as many wipeouts as I did waves. Started getting cleaner but smaller towards the end of the sesh. Im expecting better stuff tomorrow with the SW backing down and some NW coming in. Cmon!!! (crossing fingers)
Sorry for the lack of pics. Waves were a bit hard to predict. To make up for it, heres a pic of a paddle boarder that, *ahem* needs a new wetsuit.

Golden glitters

Stopped by for a surf on the drive back up to LA this morning. Man it was super nice out. Consistent & clean waist to head high, sunny, glassy, no winds. Waaaay too crowded for my taste though. Dont these people have anything better to do on a tuesday?? They cant all be bums like me?

Monday quickie

Quickie sesh this morning, it was nice to not have to deal with the weekend crowd. Got to surf the main break (although the inside part). Clean stuff, waist to shoulder high, a bit slow and lacked push at times but still fun! I love morning sessions.
Heres Jude getting some face time. I was so busy cheering her on I almost forgot to snap a picture!
And heres Jude again.... yes, those would be her feet. Bwahahahaa.....

Summer iced tea

After lunch sesh at my fave north county spot. Parking was kind of a bitch, but surf was fun. Icy water, but sunny skies, chest to head high and open faces! Caught some fun ones, got spun around in the washing machine, ahhh the joys of surfing.
A little too deep on this one Jude...

Heavy mix

Sure wish I had brought my camera for yesterday's sesh, but I totally forgot it! Did a double session in San onofre area, and it was frikkin epic.

Today's sesh was definitely bigger, but kind of mixed up and walled up in SD's north county. Only caught a few good rides, and some waves definitely kicked my ass today. Waves were consistently head high and over at times, and they were even bigger at the main break. Tomorrow is supposed to be even bigger!! Holy moly!
Heres Eug on a nice wave coming from all the way outside
But he pulled out alittle early. WUSS!!

Glassy walls

This morning saw some increase in size compared to yesterday, I believe its this weekend's SW swell starting to fill in. It was about knee to waist high, with sets up to chest high. Peaks were popping up in random spots, not really consistent, and walled up at most times. Still they were fun to pull into and practice the washing machine maneuver. Only had a few fun clean rides but overall it was a fun day. I think I stepped on another fish! thats 2 days in a row!

Oh yeah and I hardly took any pics of other surfers because there were hardly anyone out...

Shore pound fun

Well, this morning turned out to be more fun than I expected. I mean, definitely not great waves. Just some knee high shore pounds. But, it was super clean, sun came out, so had some fun out there. Yesterday was more of the same but it seemed more wally, and I even managed to snap a fin off my board. The next few days should see some increase in size... I hope the shape holds up though! Oh and i stepped on a BIG fish as i was walking out of the water!! Im not talking slimy, floundery type of fish, im talking like something with more.... girth. Freaked me out.

Whered summer go?

Man it sure seemed like summer never came this year. Surf was onshore windy, choppy, cold, overcast. It just didnt feel like summer. Caught some waves at the local spot, at times it was wally, at times it was crumbly. Shapely waves were definitely a rare thing this this morning. Went over the falls and smacked my face on the rail of my board on my very first wave- ouch! It was about waist high on average, with larger sets rolling in once in a while.

Heres Thomas catching some crumbly babies.
Caught Juls on some nice take offs.
Here are a few of Julie.
Heres a good one of Julie right before a wipeout! bwahahaa....

Predictably unpredictable

Surf didnt look good today, but I hadnt gotten wet since Sunday, so I thought Id give it a shot. Tried out the south side today, and boy its so different compared to my usual spots in the north side. It was lumpy, bumpy, hard to predict. Peaks would pop up out of nowhere, or peaks that you see coming a mile away would disappear. It was about waist to chest, but inconsistent and unpredictable as heck, and not much shape at all. There was an OG out there getting some nice rides. He lacked etiquette though.

Double double

Havent had a chance to update the blog until now! So I went camping in San Diego in one of those camping/surfing camps in north county. Saturday was pretty small, mostly waist high or less. There were bigger, nicer waves that I wish I could have scored, but check out the competition:
Yeah, so I didnt stand a chance. They got all the good stuff, and I was left with crumbly scraps. Oh well, thats how it works on a summer wkend I guess. We actually did a double session that day, one in the morning and one in the evening.

Sunday was a bit better. We got out a bit earlier and it wasnt so crowded. Got some pretty nice rides out there. Still kind of small, but it was fun. Then after lunch we went for a second sesh, and this spot had some stronger waves and sometimes wally and shore pound-ish, but it was fun. After that I drove home, and realized just how tired i was... What a great weekend!

Heres a pic of OG Bob doing the airplane. I wish I had more pics of him, he was unstoppable!
Heres Billy, umm.... dropping in?
Got a pic of the Tommy Burst in action, look at that intensity!

Heres Kat & Julie sharing a wave.
Heres an up close shot of Kat. She is smiling, but also thinking, "get out of my way, kook!"
Now my shoulders are EXTREMELY sore...