Sunday, October 3, 2010

Walled up fun


Its good to be back in the local spot with some surf buddies. I was hoping the waves would be better, but what are you gona do. Chest high walls pretty much all morning. A few had some short lived shoulders, but almost all of them just wall up and close out. Still had fun tucking into those walls and getting thrown around a bit, feels like home...

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Stingrays

Stepped on 3 of them today. They just slithered slithered away instead of harpooning me though, thank goodness. Hung out in the OC today, promised some friends Id be their surf teacher (unqualified as I am). Some small mushy stuff here, nothing spectacular. The water is peculiarly warm though.....
Cant wait to get back to the local breaks tomorrow!