BALLS...

... I need to grow me a pair. Went a bit further south to avoid the crowds and ended up finding some waves at a spot that was breaking pretty gnarly. They were ranging from alittle overhead, to alot overhead. I was pretty scared out there everytime the sets would roll from all the way outside. I think my heart wanted to pop right out of my chest, it was pounding so hard. The shapes were really nice though, the faces would hold and hold for a long time. Managed to catch 3 of them and they were super fun, but the paddle back out was a bitch to say the least. I suppose between the fear & anxiety I had alittle bit of fun out there. Most of the pics were taken from shore cus I didnt have the nerves to get pounded by these suckers. Sorry for the bad quality pics, some of them are zoomed in & cropped.

Layover

Holy geebus I love this place! Stopped by SD north county on the drive down to mom's house. This is by far my fave spot down here, and today's sesh just reinforced that. Clean ass waves, waist high and bigger, getting to head high at times. Sun was out, water was warm(ish), waves were awesome. Had a fun 2 hour sesh. Too many people know about this place though, it was really crowded. Maybe tomorrow Ill hit a different spot that is less crowded.

Pitchy fun

Lots of walls, but lots of shoulders too! Damn this morning was fun. Quick 45min sesh, but caught quite a few. Half of them were just walled up close outs, but the other half had some fun stuff going on. Light morning haze, accentuating the LA smog over the horizon. Light offshore breeze, chest to head high clean fun stuff. Makes me wish I wasnt going to SD tomorrow. Oh well, Im sure SD will have some good stuff too.
I need to work on my camera skills, didnt get that many pics showing the goodness...

Heres Les on some takeoffs. These waves just jack up real quick and had some speed!
Heres Les going deep...

Beach day

Wow what a tiring day. Spent almost the whole day at the beach today. From 7.30 to 10 I was doing morning sesh w some surf buds. This place is MAD crowded, had at least 3 close calls. Good thing everyone was nice about it. Afterwards I was a surf instructor for my beginner friends which didnt work out so well given the shorepound stuff I was working with. Outside had some hella fun waves though. Sometimes walled up, but often times just some fun shoulders. Satisfied me for the day for sure.

Didnt get that many god pics though, too busy avoiding people and trying not to get hurt...

Seal it with some noobs

Wowee! Surfed a 2nd sesh today at the OC. I decided to join an old friend to do an eve sesh, it was mainly to teach some beginners. The waves were pretty dismal, barely carried me even lying on my belly, 2ft MAX. Oh well, got to catch up with old friends and snap some pics.

El port-a-pottie

Stayed local but went alittle further north hoping to catch something bigger today, cus it was supposed to be dismal. Got some clean 2 footers. On the weak side, but alittle something to work with once in a while. Got out of the water early because of other appointments. Tomorrow I predict FUN!

Main reason I dont go to this spot (even though wave quality is generally good), is the crowd. See for yourself:
Alittle droppin in action....
Heres Kat showing those 2 ft babies whos boss!