Wednesday, September 29, 2010

BALLS...

... I need to grow me a pair. Went a bit further south to avoid the crowds and ended up finding some waves at a spot that was breaking pretty gnarly. They were ranging from alittle overhead, to alot overhead. I was pretty scared out there everytime the sets would roll from all the way outside. I think my heart wanted to pop right out of my chest, it was pounding so hard. The shapes were really nice though, the faces would hold and hold for a long time. Managed to catch 3 of them and they were super fun, but the paddle back out was a bitch to say the least. I suppose between the fear & anxiety I had alittle bit of fun out there. Most of the pics were taken from shore cus I didnt have the nerves to get pounded by these suckers. Sorry for the bad quality pics, some of them are zoomed in & cropped.














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